Sunday, December 6, 2009

Windsor Castle - part 1

Windsor Castle stands on a chalk outcrop overlooking the Thames and from whatever direction it is approached, it raises magical in outline above the surrounding countryside. Seen from a distance it is beautiful beyond imagination, for it is all perfectly in proportion and the delicate flying buttresses of St George’s Chapel give a graceful relief from the rugged solidity of the Round Tower and the Royal Apartments. Viewed from close by, the effect is less satisfactory, because the extensive Gothic restoration and alterations carried out in the early nineteenth century by Sir Jeffry Wyatville still bear an air of newness that may well delude the visitor into believing that Windsor is but an imitation of an ancient fortress. How false this impression is can only be revealed by a study of the castle’s long and fascinating history.
The Saxons had a palace at Windsor, but it was two miles lower down the river. William the Conqueror took the palace for his own, appreciating to the full the pleasures of the chase in the nearby forest. But as an invader his primary concern was security and he selected the hill above the river near his palace as a site for a stronghold that would guard the approaches to London from the west. When its construction began is not known, but it is probable that the date coincides with the building of the Tower of London (1078), for Windsor Castle is mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1084 as occupying half a hide of land in the parish of Clewer. Half a hide might mean anything between twenty and sixty acres; the castle at present covers some thirteen acres, but the additional land recorded in the Domesday Book was doubtless needed to clear the approaches.
The form of the original fortress is unknown, but it was probably similar to the present layout of the castle with an upper and a lower bailey and a central artificial chalk mound. This mound, on which the Round Tower now stands, is fifty feet high and measures almost a hundred yards in diameter at the base. Provided with a well, which is still to be seen beneath a bedroom floor in the Round Tower, is formed a secure keep to which a beleaguered garrison might retreat for a last stand. Such buildings as existed were undoubtedly made of timber from the forest, for not trace remains of any stone building of the Conqueror’s time. It was indeed a purely military establishment and did not became a royal abode until 1110 when Henry I moved there from Old Windsor as being a safer place for one whose claim to the throne was of doubtful validity.
Of the buildings he raised, no identifiable remains exist and the earliest architectural features of Windsor Castle date from the reign of Henry II, who replaced most of the wooden palisade with a stone wall, guarded at intervals with square turrets, still to be seen, through in an altered form, in the Royal Apartments next to the East Terrace. It was Henry II also who first constructed a stone keep on the mound, the odd shape of which caused the Round Tower to be anything but circular, through its irregularity is seldom noticed.
In 1189, shortly after Henry II’s death, the castle suffered its first siege when the English barons, commanded first by the Archbishop of Rouen and subsequently by the militant Bishop of Salisbury, attacked Prince John’s army of Welshmen who had taken refuge in the castle. The Welsh took fright and fled; they were pursued and “put to worthy execution”, but John himself escaped to France. Later, as King, he stayed at Windsor during the humiliating week, 15-23 June 1215, when he was forced to sign Magna Carta at Runnymede some two miles away. The following year the barons again besieged the castle, this time without success, through their siege engines did severe damage to the defenses, especially in the Lower Ward, where there was still a timber palisade. Henry III at once set about the task of repairing the damage and of strengthening the defenses by building the western curtain wall. After some old houses had been cleared away from in front of it in 1852, much of this old wall was restored, but many traces of Henry III’s work are still plainly visible in the rough-hewn heath stones close to the Curfew Tower which rises high above Thames Street.
The Curfew Tower was built in 1227 and contains some of the earliest untouched masonry in the castle. The exterior is severely uniform, having been refaced in 1863 by the French architect, Salvin, who added a sharply pointed roof in the style of his native castles to minimize damage from the rain. The Tower contains relics of an old gaol with a pair of stocks in excellent working order; the interior walls were built of chalk, the only material available locally, and one of the old dungeons contains the beginnings of a tunnel through which a prisoner hoped to escape only to be defeated by the thickness of the masonry. Under the tower there are also the remains of a Sally Port (one of three in the castle) intended to form a secret entrance and exit in time of siege. The upper part of the tower contains the castle bells, brought there in 1478 and erected on massive timbers still nobly doing their work. A flight of steep, uneven stairs leads up to where stands the fascinating movement of the clock made in 1689 by John Davis, a native of Windsor. The clock, restored but substantially original, is of great ingenuity and solid workmanship; apart from moving the hands with admirable precision and striking the hours like any normal clock, it plays a psalm tune, St David’s, every three hours, rings some merry peals and then goes through it all twice again for good measure.
The next royal builder of note was Edward III and it was an auspicious day for Windsor when he was born in castle on 28th November 1312, for it was he who founded the Order of the Garter with Windsor as its temporal and spiritual home. The origin of the Order is obscure, but it must have been created in either 1347 or 1348 after the king’s triumphant return from France. The popular account is supported by a written source as early as the reign of Henry VII when the chronicler states that King Edward picked up from the ground a garter which had come adrift from the queen “or some paramowre”; amid the ribald comments of the noblemen the king said quietly: “Sirs the time shall shortly come when we shall attribute much honor unto such a garter”. The churlish nobles rebuked, Edward instituted the Order of the Garter with its apt and reproachful motto: Honi soit qui mal y pense.
It seems that at first the Order was only intended to form two teams for jousting, with the Sovereign leading one and the Prince of Wales the other. But Edward’s intentions quickly became more serious, for on 6th August 1348, he founded the priestly College of St George with a Custos and twenty-five Canons. In addition there were to be twenty-six Poor Knights who were to attend mass daily as a substitute for the Companions of the Order. This institution survives today, through on a more modest scale; there is a Dean and three Canons and three Minor Canons and the Poor Knights, now thirteen in number and less bluntly styled Military Knights, are retired officers of distinction.

Friday, November 20, 2009

Ulan Bator, Mongolia

The capital of Mongolia is Ulan Bator, which reminds one of the large European cities that used to be under the Warsaw Pact. The great influence of the USSR is visible on every corner. Its spacious squares, public institution buildings, the communist-style residential blocks of flats, with Lada and Moskvich cars and other remnants of the Soviet car industry cruising down its streets, testify to the difficult road to recovery of a poor country from the burden of the past. Ulan Bator can be reached by train from Moscow or Beijing. The railway lines going through Mongolia are a spur of the Trans-Siberian Railway. There is, of course, a much shorter and easier way, which is also considerably more expensive – by airplane, which will not give you the opportunity to admire the astonishing landscapes of Mongolia. Any decent accommodation in the city costs a minimum of EUR 50 a day, but it should be noted that the Mongolians prefer the US dollar. It is, therefore, preferable to provide yourself with enough American currency before your trip there, because there are not many places in the city where you can use credit cards or exchange money. You will need some commercial talent when shopping, but still do not expect any large discounts. As regards food, because of the nomadic lifestyle, the traditional nomadic cuisine is based on meat and rice, although fish is not an exception. The Russian influence in Mongolia resulted in vodka being the favorite beverage, although the Mongolians have their own national drink based on alcohol – fermented mare milk than can include up to over 10 percent of alcohol, depending on the producer.
Apart from such gastronomically based pleasures, Ulan Bator also offers cultural and historical attractions. The Gandan Monastery is comprised of a group of temples and other Buddhist buildings. Its full name Gan Dan Teg Leng has recently become popular (the name is pronounced as one world, but is given here separately for easier pronunciation). In loose translation, the name means the Great Place of Complete Joy. This is a Tibetan-style monastery harmonized with the prevailing Buddhist trends in Mongolia. The Monastery was established in 1835 and it soon became the main Buddhist refuge in Mongolia. In the 1930’s, the Mongolian communist government started, under great pressure from Stalin, a campaign of annihilation of Buddhist monasteries. Ganden was virtually the only monastery, but only with a limited number of residents, as well with other restrictions. There is a Zanabazar university within the monastery, teaching astrology, traditional medicine and Buddhism. In 2006, the first generation of female students enrolled at the university. The Winter Palace of the Living Buddha, the last Emperor of Mongolia, should absolutely be visited. There are six temples around the palace, treasuring the gifts presented to the emperor. The Natural History Museum is also an excellent site for tourists. Among other attractions, it boasts two dinosaur skeletons discovered in the Gobi desert.
The same as most cities, Ulan Bator also has its dark side. Be prepared to confront the ugly images of the Mongolian capital, and some even less pleasant feelings, when you see the large number of homeless children, whose only home are the streets and deserted sewers. If you try to find out more about them from the citizens, you will get no explanation and it will be unmistakably that this very unwillingly.
However, what they will gladly talk about is the Gobi desert. You will easily find a guide with a jeep in the capital of Mongolia, ready to take you to the desert. What is more difficult to find, however, is a guide who can talk to you in English. However, you will soon realize that what connects people in the desert is not language. The vast areas of steppe in combination with the incredible blue color of the sky will make you become silent for a long time, with your eyes wide open. When you recover your desire to speak, your vocabulary will be richer in words you will use trying to describe the impressions made by such beautiful landscapes where the freedom of the nomad is a synonym for a way of life.

Monday, November 16, 2009

Mongolia

Because of its extremely harsh climate, Mongolia has been inhabited almost exclusively by nomadic tribes of cattle farmers since ancient times. This large country had only sporadic small villages of Samoyeds and Uyghur’s, as well as some others who lived under Chinese influence. Back at that time, there were occasional attacks by them on individual tribes in China, on the Silk Road than went through Western and Central Asia. In the medieval period, the legendary Genghis Khan managed to unite the Mongolian tribes and establish a state that ruled a world empire, which spread all the way to Central Europe. His grandson Kublai Khan was the founder of the Yuan Dynasty in China, and empowered Buddhist monk rule in Tibet. After several periods of frailty, a great empire was created under the rule of Timur Lang, which was later inherited by the Chinese Qing dynasty. After its downfall in 1911, Mongolia proclaimed independence, but it took until 1921 (despite Russia’s assistance) to finally force out the Chinese forces. June 11 is celebrated as a national holiday, called Naadam. The price of the expulsion of the Chinese occupation army was paid, however, by the great dependency on the then USSR. In 1924, the Mongolian People’s Republic was declared, which became a USSR satellite nation. A national holiday is celebrated on 26 November in honor of the establishment of the Mongolian People’s Republic in 1924. As a result of the ambitions of the Soviet leaders to develop Mongolia into a modern communist country, the traditional nomadic cattle breeding culture was almost completely obliterated, which caused great economic problems. The Soviets even influenced a change in the alphabet. Namely, Mongolians used their traditional Mongolian alphabet until 1921, and they switched to the Cyrillic alphabet after the revolution. Nowadays, all Mongolians use the Cyrillic alphabet, and only a smaller portion of the population is familiar with the traditional alphabet, which is also in official use. During the Stalinist purges, many Buddhist monks were killed. Almost all Buddhist monasteries in Mongolia were destroyed forever, including all their cultural treasures and libraries.
The winds of change in Eastern Europe in 1990 brought about a democratic movement to Mongolia as well, and the first free elections were organized in 1992. Today, the democracy in Mongolia is more stable than in any other country of Central Asia.
A half of the Mongolian population still pursues the nomadic lifestyle, whole families move in search of work, food and pastures, erecting their unique tents, the so-called gers or yurts (round tents with six beds arranged in a circle and a cattle dung stove), along the roads. Mongolians are primarily involved in the agricultural production of meat, milk and wool. In addition, they grow some crops, potatoes and vegetables. The share of agriculture in the total gross domestic products is – the same as industry – below 30 percent. After 1990 and the breakdown of communism, the people have tried to return to their roots and nomadic life. However, after a long period of stagnation the economy has started to strengthen recently. This growth relies mainly on services. However, the result of this growth has not affected the poor population very much. More than one-third of the citizens still live below the poverty threshold. The difficult years of reforms have however increased the share of private entrepreneurship to around 80 percent, but at the same time this has increased social division and the differences between the urban and rural areas.
Vast area of steppes, mountains and deserts are characterized by a very low density of population. Even through their numbers have doubled over the last three decades, there are still less than 3 million citizens living in Mongolia. It is easy to find the reason for this low density of population. Out of the 1.5 million square kilometers that Mongolia covers, only 10 percent is covered in forests (mainly in the northern and western mountains), and less than 1 percent is arable. Climate conditions make this area extremely harsh and cruel. Its position on the Central Asia plateau gives Mongolia one of the most extreme continental climates. The difference in average temperatures between day and night are unusually great, while the one between winter and summer temperatures reaches up to 100 C. That is why Mongolia boasts the southernmost areas of permafrost which, apart from the top few centimeters, never melt, as well as the northernmost deserts on the planet Earth.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Rijeka Crnojevica

After nearly a century of decay, Montenegrins started timidly turning back to Rijeka Crnojevica at the beginning of the new millennium. Dressed stone embankments were erected on the Rijeka waterfront, this was then paved, Danilo’s Bridge reconstructed… and there is hope that the small town will manage to recover at least a small part of its former splendor.
When you leave Podgorica, on your way to Rijeka, your first stop will be at Pavlova strana, overlooking the River Crnojevica that springs from the Obodska cave and runs down the valley, meandering among the nearby hills and flowing into Skadar Lake. After the surreal image of natural harmony from Pavlova strana, the road goes on to another view. A view to the past and… oblivion…
Nestled into the silence of Skadar Lake, away from modern roads, new buildings, industry… almost deserted by both its citizens and visitors… this small town has been lost in time. The beauty of its nature has remained untouched because of human neglect, glorious past of this place.
A law prohibiting the sale of fish also contributed to the slow death of this town, as well as the construction of the Podgorica Cetinje road, which did not go through Rijeka. A whole town with around 500 citizens remained derelict and deserted. It was also considerably damaged in the devastating earthquake of 1979.
Montenegrins started timidly turning back to Rijeka Crnojevica at the beginning of the new millennium. Dressed stone embankments were erected on the Rijeka waterfront, this was then paved, Danilo’s Bridge reconstructed…
Tourists have again started coming from Russia, Italy, Great Britain… together with the hope that this small town will manage to recover at least a small part of its former splendor so that a beautiful heritage would not slip into oblivion and neglect, living on only in the canvasses of painters and in the eye of a cameraman.
The history of oblivion
The beginning of the story of Rijeka is related to a former ruler of Zeta, Ivan Crnojevic, who, while running away from the Ottoman army in 1475, erected a fortification and a monastery on Obod hill, with a church dedicated to St Nicholas. He moved his capital there from the Zabljak fortification, while the monastery became the seat of the Metropolitanate of Zeta.
The Town of Obod is better known for the first Montenegrin printing house, than as the seat of the Crnojevic Dynasty. Ivan’s son, Djuradj Crnojevic, bought a printing press from Venice (only 38 years after Guttenberg), which was used to print Oktoih, the first printed book among the South Slavs, in 1494. The printers were hieromonks, out of whom Makarije was the most skilled. The printing house was active until the Montenegrins were forced to melt down its lead letters into rifle ammunition in order to defend their freedom. A modest plaque, exhibited on the walls of the remains of the Obod fortress, which informs visitors that the Obod printing house used to work there.
The dynasty that ruled Montenegro after the Crnojevic was also not indifferent to the beauties of this palace. The Metropolitan and ruler of Montenegro, Petar I Petrovic Njegos, build a house here in the early 19th century, and it later became known as the Bishop’s House. A famous landmark of Rijeka Crnijevica, its stone bridge, was erected in 1853 by Prince Danilo. Apart from the bridge, Danilo built a house on the left riverbank, and the two compose a harmonious whole and blend perfectly with the surroundings. King Nikola built his winter palace, Ljeskovac, in this town, as well as a large bridge on the road connecting Rijeka and Virpazar.
During the 19th and the early 20th centuries, Rijeka Crnojevica was Montenegro’s largest port and leading trade centre. Many people of different religions and nations came to its market, which offered goods from all parts of Montenegro. A local product that was especially appreciated was dried bleak, which was a highly valued dish in Italy. The then great wealth in this area was based on community land, located in the lakes inlets, the so called oke, which are numerous in this area and very rich in fish. At that time, the town used to have its town government, district court, customs house, a salt and oil monopoly, and it was the main industrial centre of Montenegro. Before the Balkan Wars, Rijeka was full of manufacturers. The first pharmacy in Montenegro was opened here, as well as the first gunsmith shop. The Marica factory produced fine mother-of-pearl, that is, pearls made out of fish scales. At that time, there were seventy-five different trade and service companies, as well as nearly seventy taverns in the town, all of which operated successfully. Nowadays, there are three taverns in Rijeka, one of which (next to Danilo’s Bridge) bears the symbolic name “The First Port”.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Banja Luka

Banja Luka, with 250.000 inhabitants, is the largest city in the Republic of Srpska and the second largest city in Bosnia and Herzegovina. It represents political, financial, university and cultural center of the Republic of Srpska. It is situated in the valley at the altitude of 164 m, in the transition between Dinaric Mountains in the south and Panonic basin in the north. Banja Luka has moderately continental climate with prevailing influences of Panonic area. Average annual temperature is 10.7 C, average January temperature is 0.8 C, while average July temperature is 21.3 C. Due to large number of green areas (parks and avenues), Banja Luka has the epithet of the town of greenery. Banja Luka is also called the town of the young, sports and pretty girls.
Culture
In the territory of the today’s Banja Luka, since the ancient times, there were always human communities that left traces of time in which they lived. In Banja Luka you can experience a spirit of different cultures that were interwoven in this territory and visit a large number of cultural and historic monuments being the witnesses of different epochs and human creativity. Cultural and historical monuments: Gospodska Street, Petar Kocic monument, fortress Kastel, Banski dvor, monument of Banj brdo, Hipotekarna banka, Sokolska kuca, hotel Palace, old Serbian Primary School, environmental entity Carski drum, Trappist Monastery, the Building of old railway station, Safikava’s grave, Monastery Gomionica, medieval town of Zvecaj, Archive of the Republic of Srpska, church of Christ the Savior. Also, Banja Luka as a cultural center of the Republic of Srpska offers you the possibility to visit the cultural institutions such as the Museum of the Contemporary Art of the Republic of Srpska, Museum of the Republic of Srpska, Cultural Centre Banski dvor, National Theatre of the Republic of Srpska, Galleries etc.
History
At the territory of today’s Banja Luka, the continuous development of human communities from prehistory until today can be followed. This territory has been favorable for settling and living since the ancient times, first of all due to natural resources, and later also due to geographical, traffic, and strategic position. Banja Luka was mentioned for the first time in the year of 1494 in the charter of Hungarian king Vladislav II Jagelovic, issued in Budim in Latin language, although the town had existed even earlier. Prehistorically archeological localities as well as the items found on them give evidence on existence of human communities at these areas since the epoch of musterien from 5000 – 3500 BC. In preantic period, wider area of Banja Luka and western Bosnia was inhabited by Illyria tribes called Mezeji and Oserijati which left behind many ancient town settlements. Having defeated the Illyric tribes in Baton war (6 -9 AD), the Romans started to come to this territory and assigned it into their province Illyrik. A part of the structure of military and administrative power of the Roman Empire was construction of roads near which stationary military camps (Castra) and civil settlements (municipium) were formed. After the fall of the Roman Empire, this area was inhabited by Slavs which left behind early-Slavonic ancient town settlements. Medieval life in Banja Luka and its surrounding grew, which can be confirmed by many written documents as well as a large number of fortified towns from the period from XII to XV century. By the fall of the Bosnian state and by coming of Turks to these areas in the year of 1528, Banja Luka got the significance as the strategic bastion of Hungarian and Turkish domination. Banja Luka got a special significance during the rule of Ferhad-Pasha Sokolovic (1574 - 1588) when it became the center of the Turkish administrative unit – Bosnian pashaluk (jurisdiction of a Pasha). The thing that followed after 350 years of the Turkish administration was the Austro-Hungarian occupation (1878) that lasted for 40 years. After the World War I, this area became a part of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians, and from 1929 a center of Vrbaska banovina (region ruled by a ban – civil governor) of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia when it experienced its largest rise. The first civil governor (Ban) of the Vrbaska banovina Svetislav Tisa Milosavljevic (1929 – 1934) during his mandate built many structures among which the following buildings should be emphasized: Ban’s administration (Banska uprava) and Ban’s residency (Banski dvor), National Theatre, Hotel Palace, Sokolski dom, City Park (Gradski park), Ethnographic Museum, schools, hospitals etc. Also, the Ban Milosavljevic christened the church of Christ the Savior on the occasion of its dedication in 1929, and the church was bombed later, and then destroyed in 1941. The church was renovated in 2004 and today presents one of the most beautiful orthodox churches in Bosnia and Herzegovina. After the World War II, Banja Luka experienced its peak again which was stopped during the time of a large earthquake in 1969 and the war 1992-1995 after which it started to develop again as a center of the Republic of Srpska.
Traffic
Banja Luka has always been very important intersection of roads, in the period of Romans when a road that connected Roman Provinces Dalmatia and Pannonia passed through the town, and the railway Banja Luka – Dobrljin that was released in 1873 as the first railway of this type in Bosnia and Herzegovina. And today as well, Banja Luka presents the junction of roads of the direction north – east Europe towards the Adriatic and east – west. A railway communication that connects the City with the western and Eastern Europe and other parts of the Republic of Srpska and Bosnia and Herzegovina passes through Banja Luka as well. There is an international airport Banja Luka situated 25 kilometers north of the center of the City.
Vrbas
Vrbas is the main watercourse of Banja Luka that divides the town into two parts and is something more than just a river for the inhabitants of Banja Luka. Therefore, still in some settlements we have the rule of “view to the river” that is applied in civil engineering at the banks the Vrbas. In town, the following tributaries flow into the Vrbas: Vrbanja, Suturlija, Crkvena, Rijeka, Svrakava, Rekavica and others. Flowing from the south towards the north, Vrbas gets out of the canyon, mountain flow and transfers into plain flow. The area of the Vrbas canyon that is situated only 12 km from the centre of the town is distinguished by the clear water of the II category, rich and various flora and fauna, cultural and historical monuments, and natural rarities on the basis of which it was protected according to the Decision of the Institute for Monuments and Culture Protection of SR BiH dated 1955. Vrbas has a specific boat known as dajak which got the name after the stick used for moving the boat.
Accommodation
The location of Banja Luka as a transit town caused the appearance of stationary resorts as early as in the Roman period. One of the first hotels that were built in the territory of Bosnia and Herzegovina is the hotel Bosnia from the year of 1885 and according to some sources it was built even earlier. Today Banja Luka has a large number of lodging capacities of different categories and purposes.
Gastronomy
In Banja Luka there are many restaurants that can satisfy the needs even of the most demanding gourmands, from the national ones that offer traditional cuisine till modern with European and world specialties. Specific specialty of the town of Banja Luka is Banjalucki kebab (Banjalucki cevap) consisted of tablets of grilled minced meat and specific round flat bread – lepinja.
Events
During the year, in Banja Luka and its surroundings there are a range of traditional events of different characters such as Ljeto na Vrbasu (Summer on the Vrbas), Povratak selu (Return to village life), Kocicev zbor (Kocic’s gathering), Banjalucke ljetne igre (Summer Games of Banja Luka) and many others.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Struga, Macedonia

The beauty and the blue colors of the Lake and the River Black Drim are surrounded by high mountains, a lot of cool springs, mountain lakes and small rivers, endemic flora and fauna, picturesque villages and a considerable number of cultural and historic monuments of the rich past.
Struga is situated in the southwestern part of the Republic of Macedonia, on the shoreline of Lake Ohrid and alongside the banks of the River Black Drim that divides the city into two.
Lake Ohrid lies at an altitude of 695 meters above sea level and occupies an area of 348, 2 square km. The coast line of the lake is 87, 5 km long. The maximum depth of the lake is 289 meters, with a high transparency that reaches up to 24 meters.
The climate in the Struga region, geographically speaking, is continental, but through out the year one can fell warm air streaming because of the Adriatic Sea. Maximum average temperatures reach 27 degrees centigrade in July and August. The average temperature of the water of the Lake Ohrid is summer is 26 degrees centigrade, while the temperature throughout the year reaches up to around 12 degrees centigrade.
The Black Drim River is the only exit of the Lake Ohrid’s water. The river’s flow to Adriatic Sea forms the artificial lakes of Globochitza and Shpile.
On the shores of Lake Ohrid, since the Neolithic era, there were numerous ancient settlements. Struga and its surroundings have been continuously populated and featured as a cradle of ancient civilization.
During the findings at the mouth of the river Black Drim there was discovered archaeological evidence of an ancient palophyte settlement. The archaeological diggings discovered a fortune of ancient working tools made of stones and bones, as well as ceramics. Archaeological findings bear witness that near the mouth of the river Black Drim (ancient Drilon) was established the ancient city of Enchalon, by the Illyrian tribe of Encheleians. The “Via Egnatia” penetrated in the region of Struga, more precisely, passed through the village of Radozda, Struga. Inside the church of St George in Struga was found a millennium stone “Egnatia” on which is written the name of the Roman emperor Karakalius and the distance of 12 km dividing Struga from Ohrid.
The construction of Christian temples in the region of Struga started alongside with official acceptance of the Christian religion. The most indisputable facts are:
The Basilica of Ladorishta from the 4th century AD
The Basilica of Oktisi, known as the basilica of St Nicola of the village of Oktisi, from the 5th century AD

The church of St George is the most renowned one in the city of Struga, where one can find the icon of St George, which dates from 1267 and shows the patron painted frontally.
The church complex near the village of Kalishta, only 3 km away from Struga, is a monastery church dedicated to St Mary. It is accompanied by other sacral buildings and small cave churches inside the mountain in the western part of the coast of Lake Ohrid, which date from the 15th century and are decorated with a rich assembly of medieval frescoes and icons.
The church of St Spas is situated inside a cave in the village of Visni just bellow the village of Upper Belitza, dating from the 15th century. High above the mountains near the village of Radozda, inside a cave one can find a small church dedicated to St Archangel Michael, one of the oldest cave churches on the shores of Lake Ohrid with paintings dating from the 11th century.
The Mosque of Suleiman Arapi in Struga was built by the pasha of the sultan of the time in 1583, and is located on the right bank of the river Black Drim.
The Natural Scientific Museum of “Dr Nikola Nezlobinski” in Struga is one of the oldest institutions in Macedonia. The Museum began to work in the year 1928. There is an exhibition in the museum.
The citizens of Struga can be very proud of the many old crafts. Accordingly, they can point out the manufacturers of silver jewelry, hand made filigree, old style loom weaving, decorative wood carving, pottery and many other handicraft shops that are located mainly in the old city bazaar.
The traditional cuisine cherished for centuries in Struga and its surroundings invites you to taste the delicious meals.

Sunday, July 5, 2009

Island of Brac

Bathed in the Mediterranean sunlight, enveloped by the scent of pines, sage and rosemary, and calmed by the sound of the crickets, Brac rises above the clear blue water of the Adriatic proudly facing Dalmatia’s largest city, Split. As the largest Dalmatian island, Brac is a true oasis of unspool nature, authentic Dalmatian architecture and a sense of serenity more associated with bygone days. In addition, it is within easy access of two UNESCO World Heritage Sites (the town of Trogir and the Diocletian’s Palace in Split), is well connected to the mainland by ferries and to the rest of the world by its own international airport.
You can leave stress and city life behind. Time is marked by passing shadows and stars, whilst the ancient bell towers ring out the rhythm of nature. Brac has always been a refuge for those in search of peace and tranquility, from the inhabitants of ancient Salona and the nobility of Split, through to modern travelers in search of true values. This is the place to allow you to relax and unwind.
Widely renowned and highly regarded around the world, the stone from Brac has been used in the construction of some of the most famous buildings in the world, from Diocletian’s Palace in Split to the White House in Washington, as well as the houses of fisherman and laborers of Brac. Enchanting villages dotted around the island display excellent examples of traditional architecture: stone houses, fireplaces, wells, balconies, entwined in bougainvillea, churches, bell towers, and streets paved in white stone slabs or pebbles, and courtyard adorned with vines, tangerine, lemon, and fig and pomegranate trees. The unpretentious simplicity of these houses built to resist the sun, wind and time, karts’ fields and olive groves, cairns, stone shelters and drywalls are a testimony of the wisdom and diligence of the island’s inhabitants, to the generations that drawn their energy from the sun, the stone and the sea.

Supetar

Situated on a horse-shoe shaped cove, Supetar is a charming and picturesque harbor village. Everything here is close at hand and conveniently located: restaurants, shops, banks, post offices, market, cinema, library, health care services and various sports facilities. Your stay here will also be enhanced by the free concerts, theatrical shows, folklore festivals and numerous other events which are organized as part of the Supetar Summer of Culture.
With its excellent connections to Split via a direct car-ferry service (more than 14 departures per day during summer), Supetar is an ideal destination for those looking to benefit from the rich monumental heritage and natural beauties of the Central Dalmatian mainland (Diocletian’s Palace, Trogir, Salona, Klis, Vranjaca Cave, Cetina Canyon, Krka Falls, Sibenik Cathedral…), whilst still enjoying the charm of a small island town. Let’s not forget to mention the numerous opportunities for walks and excursions on the island: Blaca desert, Vidova Gora, Zlatni Rat, Museum of Brac, stone cutting school… every place on the island of Brac has its own beauty and appeal. In addition to the high-quality hotels in Supetar, many of the local households offer private accommodation facilities in the form of apartment rentals.

Splitska

Located in a deep and relatively steep cove, Splitska is reminiscent of a swan gazing at its own reflection in the water. This place of exceptional beauty exudes an almost aristocratic serenity, particularly with the Cerinic family mansion built in the 16th century. Splitska is the ideal destination for those fond of walks in the countryside: a 45 minute walk to Skrip, 30 minute walk to Postira, and 30 minutes more to Dol. The town features three restaurants, a café and a store, as well as a Tourist Office open during the season.

Skrip

As the oldest settlement on the island, Skrip is one of the must-see destinations for every visitor to Brac. The Museum of Brac is located in the old Radojkovic house; the nearby church of the Holly Spirit, the Cerinic family mansion and the parochial church of St Helen all stand witness to the time when life, endangered by pirates, carried on deep in the island and away from the coast, when Skrip was one of the most important places on the island. The few residents mainly depend on agriculture although Skrip’s historical importance has recently brought tourism to the village.

Mirca

This is a quiet, tranquil little place located about 3 km from Supetar towards Sutivan. The old town centre exudes the atmosphere of a forgotten island village where time had stopped, as life has descended to the shoreline where new houses have been built amongst the pine trees and gardens, as close to the sea as possible. The Gumonca Cove with its beach and small port for fishing boats has thus become the Mirca’s new heart.